A Month in Review or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Armenia

A month? It's been a month???

Khachkar (stone cross). Noratus.

The past few days I've been struggling a lot with how to put into words the past four weeks; the juxtaposition between the mornings in bed staring teary-eyed at the ceiling with the afternoons and nights of joy and excitement; the transition from Tourist to Resident, from Former-Exchange-Student-to-Japan to Present-Exchange-Something-to-Armenia. I don't know if it's really possible to capture those feelings in words. All I know is that on the plane to Yerevan, I wrote this sentence in my travel diary: "I want to laugh, I want to cry, I want to feel all those emotions that are at the height of intensity when you're living abroad." While that's the type of thing easier said than done, at least I knew what I was getting into.

Old Armenian inscription on a stone pillar. Geghard Monastery.

The first two weeks in Armenia were kind of, like, tough!! I felt excited and very eager, but the intense pressure I put on myself to constantly be out and about, "getting out of my comfort zone!!1," meeting people, and learning Armenian got compounded with exhaustion, not knowing anyone, and being in a big loud dusty mind-jabbering city after spending a month secluded in semi-monasticism at home in Tennessee.

Of course, there was a lot to get used to. I'd never experienced the "aesthetic" of a former Soviet region (let alone spent any time in a developing country), and it was hard to shake off the constant stares and the lack of smiles; Armenians are really friendly, but they're also not American, which means smiling at strangers isn't kosher.

Soviet-era pedestrian tunnel. Yerevan.

Like I said, I felt excited and eager. But I also felt a little lost. Where was the euphoria I felt when I arrived in Japan as an exchange student in high school? Where was my "honeymoon period?" Where was my happiness? Any time I had a moment alone to my thoughts, I kept wondering how I was going to find it.

Why buy a fancy plaque when you can just write the floor number on the walls? My apartment, Yerevan.

One night, still feeling unsteady and unsure, I was doing some lesson planning and decided to flip through a book of quotes I brought from home, thinking I'd find a good passage to start off my conversation class and get the students talking. As I skimmed through the book, a quote at the bottom of one page caught my eye: Happiness is a conscious choice.

Hayastanə du es - 'You Are Armenia.' Yerevan.

 "Happiness is a conscious choice"!!!??? DUH! I read that, and it clicked: that euphoria, that joy, that insistence on living in the present, that happiness I was looking for--I wasn't going to just "find" it. No amount of new activities, new hobbies, new friends, or new places would make me happy in Armenia. I realized if I wanted to be comfortable and happy in my new home, it was as simple as that: I just had to be happy. As cliche and crunchy and touchy-feely as it sounds, it started a big shift in my experience.

Doorway looking out over Lake Sevan. Hayravank Monastery.

The first two weeks I had spent so much time worrying about being happy that I, uh, NEWSFLASH!, wasn't really happy. I was constantly comparing everything I experienced to my past trips abroad; I was stressed about figuring out work, finding new activities to fill my schedule, making friends, and learning Armenian. I didn't let myself take a chill pill and recognize that the first two weeks in a new place (for me, at least) are always kind of tough.

Now? Now everything is awesome!! After hitting the two week mark, I found my stride. School is amazing, Yerevan is amazing, and every morning I wake up excited, eager, and happy. In the past two weeks I hiked to the top of Mt. Aragats (Armenian's highest peak!), drank grape vodka with village honeymakers, celebrated Armenian Independence Day, learned enough Armenian to order food and talk to my host mom, watched hundreds of people dance Armenian traditional dances in downtown Yerevan under the full moon, taught all my own classes, met amazing new foreign and local friends, and laughed my butt off at all those hilarious and bizarre things you can only experience if you're a 'stranger in a strange land.'

Here's to nine more months of happiness!!

Cathedrals and Stone Crosses and a New Apartment!

The past few days have been full of more Yerevan wandering, plus lots of running around--meetings with my Embassy contact, university administrators, and runs to multiple cellphone/internet companies, not including the move to my apartment! Luckily I'm all moved in with my incredible host mom in my amazing soviet flat, and to mark the end of my first week in Yerevan and a successful internet connection, here are some new pictures!

A dreamy, typical cafe lunch--fresh salad, lime/raspberry tea, and chicken kebab! I ordered this all in Armenian--it felt very exciting!

One of the parks that's a part of Yerevan's green belt. It's such a great city for strolls~

I feel really good about this little orange elephant and his beret!!!

Dubious. One thing I'm still getting used to is the lack of American food chains--no Starbucks, no McDonalds, no Target or chain book stores or even department stores. I'm not implying I miss them--it's just surprising!!

Yerevan's cathedral, dedicated to St. Gregory the Illuminator (who helped make Armenia the first Christian nation). It was built in 2001, to commemorate the 1700th year of Christianity in Armenia.

The few times I've been abroad long term, the first weeks have always overwhelmed me a little--I have a lot of those worries about understanding and being understood, making friends, trying to balance expectations with goals and hopes. When I got to St. Gregory's I sat down and immediately knew I needed to meditate a little, so I pulled out my worn copy of the prayer of St. Francis, which has to be the ultimate encouragement to "be your own champion."

Of course, if Saint Francis doesn't get you jazzed, Andranik Ozanian will! He was an Armenian freedom fighter who fought against the Turks and Azeris in the early 1900s. He's a big national hero in Armenia--the country's Robin Hood and Washington, all in one? He's so badass that he's astride two horses (one of which is trampling a snake).

Very close to the shopping center in Yerevan is a little side street where stonemasons carve khachkars, Armenian stone crosses.

I couldn't believe this was stone--the carving is so gorgeous and intricate I was sure it was wood. During my research before I came to Armenia, I read once that the stone cross was one of the iconic symbols of Armenia, like Mt. Ararat and the pomegranate.

One of the ubiquitous Russian Ladas that have almost killed me. I feel very safe in Yerevan, except when I cross the street!

Mt. Ararat at sunset

No words necessary~

(Mom, I told you everything in the stores were Russian--obviously I was wrong, HAHA)

Like I mentioned, this weekend I moved into the apartment I'll be staying at for the next year, which is the home of a wonderful Armenian women who often hosts travelers and Peace Corps volunteers. I am so thankful to the Fulbright embassy people for arranging this--I don't know if I've ever met someone so kind, and just from the past few days together I know I'm going to learn and laugh with her so much.

My room!!! I think it looks small in the picture (made smaller by my crazy unpacked clutter, which will soon be remedied!) but it feels so spacious, much bigger than any room I've ever had. The window makes it very light and airy during the day.

I debated leaving my little Pluto in the picture (street cred!!1) but when Zina (my host mom) saw him, she said, "Ha! All girl have talisman. You see mine too?" And she proceeded to show me into her room, where a little stuffed bunny reigned over her things. Soul sisters? I'm thinking.....yes. (also I am SO referring to stuffed animals as "talisman" from now on!!!)

The fantastic view from my bedroom window. I love my 'hood!! :)

That's it for now! It's getting late and I've been on my computer too long. This week should be great--the other Fulbrighters are here, I'm meeting with my university tomorrow to figure out my schedule, and I'm also having coffee with my potential Armenian teacher! Things are slowly falling into place :)

Love from Yerevan,

Lusi

A Walk With Mesrop Mashtots & St. Grigor

Today after spending the morning working on boring stuff (figuring out the process of getting a new phone, outlining my budget, contacting a few people), I had to get out of the hostel and walk around in the beautiful (surprisingly hot) weather. Since I had only explored the top half of Yerevan, I decided to walk down one of the main streets (Mesrop Mashtots) and to the south on Grigor Luysavorich (Gregory the Illuminator Street) to see the sights and maybe hit up a museum or two before I headed back home.

Here's the idea:

My first stop was the Blue Mosque, which is a little funny, since Armenia is much more known for its beautiful churches and monasteries than Muslim architecture of any kind.

However, I was very happy to find this place--there's a beautiful, shady courtyard in front of the actual mosque itself that was a wonderful respite from the city clamor.

I sat down at a bench in the courtyard to take it all in and relax. I've been a little stressed the past two days (I'm getting a little antsy to move into my apartment and get settled, make friends, etc.) so I needed it.

The actual mosque.

Walking around the courtyard made me feel like I was in Tehran, not Yerevan! (Which isn't surprising--the mosque's recent reconstruction was paid for by the government of Iran)

((Side note--can Americans even go to Tehran?? I've met a bunch of people at the hostel from Iran/Europeans who have traveled there and it sounds--aside from the political insanity--so wonderful!))

In front of the mosque was an old apartment building with balconies overlooking the courtyard. If I didn't have an apartment already set up, I think I would've knocked on the door and asked them if I could rent out the top room--it would have such a good view!

Outside the mosque, I found this great street corner--I know it's a bad picture, but I love the Armenian flag and the statue of Mother Armenia way in the back.

Another apartment I want to live in! I love the little catty-corner balconies.

My next stop was Saint Sargis church, which was on my map but only briefly mentioned; just a nice, very old church that was restored. It was so beautiful, though unfortunately sandwiched between a bunch of Soviet-era apartments. A bunch of people were walking casually in and out, so I wandered in myself, only to realize a wedding was being performed! I quickly scuttled out but nobody seemed to care.

Yerevan has a very dry climate compared to Tennessee, but luckily there are little stone water fountains all over the city.

From Saint Sargis, you can see Mt. Ararat!

Further along my walk I came upon this--Yerevan's Institute of Linguistics?! I need to do some googling.

After my walk, I stopped at the mini-mart to look at food and buy a little snack. I love the juice cartons!

Festival of Bread, TM

At the store I found a bottle of carbonated tan, which from what I gather is a kind of yogurt drink. It tasted like really spoiled milk that had been carbonated in an old gym sock, but it was amazing!

"Bari galust Hayastan" - Welcome to Armenia!

Armenia, Armenia, ARMENIA! It's so hard to put into words how I feel about my new home, but magical and completely amazing are the two (three?) big adjectives that keep popping into my head. But after a few days here I at least feel mentally prepared to write up a quick post about my experiences so far!

The City

I've never been a city person. Growing up in East Tennessee, studying abroad in a rural Japanese town, and going to university in Oregon were all experiences that gave me a great love of wide open spaces, verdant greens, and beautiful forests. Before I arrived (especially during my layover in Warsaw, a pretty big and not especially beautiful city), I started to worry--what if I touched down in Yerevan and realized I wasn't cut out for it?

I know this is going to sound naive and maybe overly earnest, the gushing of a foreigner in a new place--but I've never felt so comfortable or happy as I have the past few days in Yerevan. Even during the pitch black drive to my hostel from the airport I loved it (the alphabet! the crazy driving! the whiskey advertisements!); but when I stepped outside at about 4pm the next afternoon, the gold-tinged afternoon light reflecting the pink of the tuff stone buildings--I couldn't really believe that I'm going to live here, that this would be my home for at least nine months.

First, the city is miraculously easy and fun to navigate by foot (also important to note is that it's a very small city--just over 1 million people). From what I read, the original plan was designed by Alexander Tamanian in the 20's, who also styled many of the buildings using the pink stone tuff and integrated Armenian traditional styles into the architecture. It's arranged a lot like a wheel with criss-cross spokes, and from the exploring I've done so far it's very easy to walk from one side of the city to the other--for example, from Saryan Street in the west to Nalbandyan Street in the east, it only took about twenty minutes going the long way across the top of the wheel (I went this route because my job will be on the west side, and my apartment is on the east side, and I wanted to see it all!). Of course, I've only seen the major streets in the upper half of the city, but from what I've seen so far I'm so excited :)

Here are a few pictures from my wandering:

From the map you can see that the very top of the Yerevan city 'wheel' is a place called Cascade (pronounced kaskad), which is a giant staircase that was originally supposed to be a big waterfall. There's some construction up top that makes it not very picturesque, but in real life it's very pretty. The statue in front is the architect I mentioned before, Tamanian.

The top of Cascade, looking to the south of Yerevan. I could make out Ararat from the top, but this picture doesn't really show it.

Many of the streets are named after Armenians or Russians.

 I also love how many statues there are in the city! This is Hovhannes Toumanian, an Armenian poet who wrote a very popular opera and many folk tales. I have a huge affinity for him--I watched a TV show based on one of his folktales once (called Brave Najar) and I fell in love with how crazy it was!

Behind Mr. Toumanian's statue you can see a glimpse of the Opera. The night of my arrival I met two great guys at the hostel (one Persian, one from the Faeroe Islands!) and they were nice enough to invite me on their trip to the philharmonic, which was fantastic. Our seats were about $7.

This is part of Republic Square, which is to the south of the Opera. I can't get over the color of those stones! There's a cool book store nearby called Noah's Ark, and the street leading up to it is full of popular restaurants (according to my Lonely Planet--we'll see!).

Just a glimpse of the city

Near my hostel--it says Haykakan Konyak - Armenian brandy. I really like the store facade and font :)

An alley~

The front of the university where I'll be working, called Yerevan State Linguistic University! Very excited to see the inside and explore the campus.

The side of the university

Just another street corner, with a yellow marshrutka mini-bus in the foreground

There's so much more I want to write about--the language, the other sights, the food, everything!--but the night grows late here in Yerevan. More to come soon!